Girolamo Russo - Family Tradition, Century-Old Vineyards And Volcanic Sciare

“We are creating what we consider today will be the future of the traditions of Etna Wines.”
- Giuseppe Russo 

Nestled on the northern incline of Mount Etna, at an elevation of 650-780 meters above sea-level, lies the winery's vineyards, spanning 18 hectares and embraced by hazelnut and olive groves. A Former maestro of piano and professor of literature who transitioned into the craft of winemaking, Giuseppe Russo, brought new life to the estate in 2005, as a tribute to his beloved father Girolamo, the winery embodies Giuseppe’s quest to honor and uphold his family’s timeless customs, reimagining them with a fresh, individual touch, pioneering innovative methods in winecraft while still rooted in his birthplace, Passopisciaro – the epicenter of the modern revival in the exquisite crimson wines of Etna.

My very first sip of Giuseppe Russo's wines was in April 2023 left me feeling all 'Silky' and 'Elegance'. On 17 April 2024, another sunny day in Vinitaly, marked our first in-person meeting. Greeted with a bottle of Nerina, he led us to our seats to taste his new vintages.

Nerina is a vinous creation by Giuseppe dedicates to his mother, also bearing the name Nerina, from the days when she expressed her desire for a delicate white wine.

“And later I need to start selling it because she drank too much!” Giuseppe beamed as he said it.

The wine is made from 75% of Carricante (an ancient white grape variety from eastern Sicily that has been growing on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna for at least a thousand year), and the rest are blends of Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe.

Savored a refined and exquisite bouquet with distinct citrus and floral essences, complemented by subtle hints of spice.

ETNA ROSSO DOC ‘A RINA

Transitioning to his masterpiece 'A Rina, a blend of his four vineyards - San Lorenzo, Feudo, Calderara Sottana, and Feudo di Mezzo.

From the very beginning, I have been captivated by the allure of ‘A Rina. Its elegance, freshness, and intricate complexity, along with its soft, velvety tannins, hints of cherry and plum, with subtle hints of leather and tobacco, truly exquisite. The composition and enjoyable drinkability culminate in a silky and lingering finish.

The soil boasts a unique richness in calcium and subalkaline, graced by recent lava flows that meander through this exclusive land, setting it apart from the rest of the region, resulting in a landscape of unparalleled complexity: it is permeable and densely filled with volcanic pebbles, revealing the emergence of the motherlode– the profound stratum of stone, crafted in the wake of Etna's most tumultuous explosive (Plinian) Holocene-era eruptions, in 122 B.C..

Giuseppe's father, Girolamo, bestowed upon the vineyard its title ("The Plain of the Doves") due to the birds delighting in the most flavorful grapes in this vineyard. Moreover, aside from the usual traits of San Lorenzo, the wine crafted here exudes elegance, style, and grace that tenderly embrace the senses.

The feeling I experienced upon first learning of Giuseppe's perspective on Etna wine remains vivid in my recollection. A renowned winemaker, he is acknowledged for crafting one of Etna's most impactful wines while maintaining a gracious demeanor that uplifts those around him.

Savoring his wine, envisioning myself raising a glass, gazing at the stars shimmering beneath the vast sky of Etna. 

 

Homage to Girolamo Russo.
Grazie mille Giuseppe.